Istanbul in September: where to go and what to do (part 1)
As you
already probably know, two months back we returned from our trip to Turkey. Turkey,
especially Istanbul has always been on my mind as a potential travel
destination, but every time when the decision was made on where to go, Turkey
stayed as the 2nd or 3rd option. So this time there were
no doubts – we had to go to Turkey. Furthermore this time we were limited on
time and money. We couldn't afford a vacation more than two weeks and also the
costs of the trip should have been kept low (we had already a trip to
Italy/Switzerland in June/July this year). And in this respect Turkey is a
perfect place to go – it's relatively easy to reach and the price level is
lower than on average in Europe.
Blue Mosque, Istanbul |
Why Turkey?
I have always been tempted by Istanbul – a city where historically eastern and
western civilisations have met. The fact about Europe on the one side of Bosphorus and Asia on the other side
was always interesting to me. The things I knew on Turkey before the trip were
mostly related to the history lessons at school + I've been closely following
the debate on Turkey and EU related matters and the political instability that occurred
in the country in the recent years. As you already well know me and Anna are
kind of gastronomic travellers – we like to know the local food. Before our
trip to Turkey I knew about Baklava, Turkish coffee and Tea. I also had some knowledge
on the usage of local vegetables and lamb. However I had no idea generally on
Turkish cuisine and its wines. In Istanbul we also wanted to see the
architecture and find a great deal in one of the countless Bazaars + it was
rather intriguing to visit the Asian side.
In addition
to the temptation to see Istanbul, we also wanted to go to a bit wilder place.
A blog of a Latvian girl, living in Turkey already for a while, was just the
right guide for us (http://bosforazvaigzne.lv/ - a great blog on the life in
Turkey, however in Latvian language). Inuta gave as a great idea to visit a
distant village in the south of Turkey (will tell about it in the part 3 of
this travel review).
Why
September? I think that this is the perfect time to visit Turkey – it is still
very warm (about 28-30°C), the water in Mediterranean Sea is warm and the
bazaars are full of fresh local food.
Itinerary
of the trip this time was really simple. We planned to spend three days in
Istanbul. Then we would take the domestic flight to Dalaman from where we would
travel further to the south to reach our quite place in the woods and mountains
of Turkey's wilderness. J On our way back we would spend
again tree days in Istanbul. Looking ahead I can say that this is a very well
balanced itinerary as it is kind of exhausting to spend more than three days in
a row in Istanbul.
Preparation and the flight
When
travelling to Turkey the obvious choice is to look for an airfare at Turkish
Airlines. This is what we did and got a fairly priced airfare from Riga to
Istanbul. The interesting thing at least for us was the flight duration.
Usually it takes around 2.5h to get to Central Europe (Brussels, Frankfurt,
Munich etc.) from Riga. You kind of expect that Istanbul is further away and
that it will take more time to get there, but that's not completely true. If
you look on the map, Riga and Istanbul are almost on the same meridian. So it
takes only about 2h 40m to get to Istanbul. It is also nice that the checked-in
baggage rules are so relaxed at Turkish Airlines – a 30 kg baggage is included
in the airfare price. And the food on Turkish Airlines flight (free of charge) was
absolutely astonishing. Before the flight (in the process of purchasing
tickets) you can chose between different special offers for those who are on a
special diet. Plus there are two or three regular offers in each flight. We
took the seafood offer and it was great + some Turkish wine and a piece of
Baklava was offered giving a chance to taste a piece of Turkey while you're
approaching it. So briefly – the flight was one of the most comfortable we had
in the last years. And the price/quality ratio is fantastic. J
First evening in Istanbul
In the
airport (we arrived at the Atatürk Airport which is mostly used in case of
international flights; the other one - Sabiha Gökçen is more used in case of domestic flights)
you have to stand in a queue to the passport control. The good thing is that
for citizens of Latvia there is no need for visa. But don't forget to check the
necessity of visa or other documents before travelling to Turkey (remember that
Turkey is outside EU). Then another queue in currency exchange (it is best to
change a small amount of money in the airport, the exchange rates are way
better in the city centre) and we were ready to leave the airport.
There is a
metro line in the Airport that connects to the centre of Istanbul. That is the
cheapest and quite often also the fastest way how to reach the city centre (Taksim or Sultanahmet). There are two ways of paying for the ride – you can
by a token that costs 1.5 Turkish Lira (TL) for one segment of the trip (so you
have to use another one if you're changing to another metro or light-rail). The
other way is to get the Istanbulkart – a pre-paid card that can be used in most transports of Istanbul –
buses, metros, ferries, trams and funiculars. I would definitely recommend you
to get an Istanbulkart – it's cheaper
(comparing to tokens) and it's easy to use.
Blue Mosque |
When
travelling to the city centre (from Atatürk
Airport) choose M1 line. If you're
heading to Taksim square or Sultanahmet you have to get off at Zeytinburnu station
and change to a tram that's heading to Kabatas. On overall the trip will
take you about an hour. If you decide to take taxi (be sure to check the most
common types of taxi scams for Istanbul in Wikitravel) the trip could be
a bit shorter, but that depends on the traffic situation. And Istanbul is a
place with great congestions; if you're unlucky enough you can find yourself
sitting in congestion for hours.
In our case the M1 metro ride was very comfortable, but the change at Zeytinburnu
wasn't so pleasing anymore. It was already dark outside (our plane arrived
in the evening part) and the crowds on the platforms and later in the tram were
overwhelming. There was very little space in the tram, especially taking into
account our luggage. It was also quite odd that we didn't see any other
tourists – the tram was full of locals, what seemed a bit weird because this is
the main line for tourists to reach the city centre. Apparently the vast
majority of tourists do take taxi. J I must
admit that it was a bit worrying to spend ~30 minutes sandwiched by the locals
because just before the trip I was reading some general advices on the
pickpockets in the public transportation of Istanbul. J However
everything was fine in the end, we reached our desired tram stop – Sultanahmet.
Our hotel was only some 5 minutes away from the stop. On our way to hotel we
managed to see the Blue Mosque, the Ayasofya, and the Obelisk. We found
our hotel (Timeks
hotel; a great location – in the middle of Sultinahmet, 5 minutes
away from tram to Kabatas, + a great price; However – don't take the
breakfast here – really not worth the price, just go and find yourself some
place on the main street). After we found our hotel went back for a small walk
to take a look at the Blue Mosque – on our arrival there was a beautiful full
moon over the Mosque. A bit mysterious look and just the thing we needed for
our first night in Istanbul. I suppose this will be the view I'll always
remember thinking of Istanbul and this was a great start for our trip. We also
ate our first Kebab and drunk a glass of pomegranate juice. The Kebab as you
would expect was great, but the juice was a bit to sour (we got the impression
that the pomegranates weren't completely ready).
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